Removal of Various Wires, Harnesses, Etc. GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid 13

Rear pass side block ground strap - GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Rear pass side block ground strap – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Wires and harnesses.  There are a few kinds on modern engines.  The ones you can see, and can get to; the ones you have no clue how to get to; and the ones you don’t know even exist yet. This video only tackles the first type, the easy ones.

Large firewall ground strap - GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Large firewall ground strap – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

They’re there, in plain sight – and relatively easy to get to and remove.  If you are gonna pull the block, they need to get unhooked.  Firewall ground straps are fairly straight forward.  I chased a part of the harness to the mass air flow sensor only to realize that it branched off (near the AC accumulator) and down the firewall, along the frame, and out of sight.  I decided to figure this one out in a later video – as well as another ground under the block that I didn’t even know existed until later.

So many wires and harnesses, and these are the ones you can actually see on a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

So many wires and harnesses, and these are the ones you can actually see on a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Aside from removing the grounds near the firewall, this video is a bit of a lead down a dead end road, but this is a documentary of my journey, so I left in the dead end chase as well as when I got it right.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Remove Alternator, Valve Covers, Rocker Arms, Push Rods GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS vid 8

Valve covers prior to removal on my GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Valve covers prior to removal on my GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

I’m happy to say that the removal of the alternator, valve covers, rocker arms, and push rods was very easy!  Everything went exactly as you would expect them to go.  My only exception was the dramatic difference in coloring of the rocker arms and valve springs from the passenger side to the driver’s side.  Passenger side was gold in color and (to me) looked healthy.

Valve cover removed showing rocker arms and springs GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Valve cover removed showing rocker arms and springs

The driver’s side looked brown, burnt, and very unhealthy.  I posted a question on one of the Tahoe discussion boards, and never heard back from anyone.  So either, it was a stupid question, or no one knew the answer.  I still don’t know.

Pushrods and rocker arms from my GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Pushrods and rocker arms from my GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

You will notice the careless way I threw all the push rods in the box.  I already purchased a cam, new springs (and hardware), new rocker arms, and new push rods, so I was not too concerned about where everything ended up.  I did keep the rockers in order, just in case something came up that I needed to identify what was what.  If you are planning a cam swap without replacing the push rods and rockers, take care in knowing exactly where everything came from.

By the way, you can’t pull the valve covers until you have removed the spark plug coil packs (check out Video 5).

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

Remove Exhaust Manifold GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS Video 7

This one exhaust nut took days to get off. I had to grind it down to nothing to get it to finally fall off.

This one exhaust nut took days to get off. I had to grind it down to nothing to get it to finally fall off.

Notice the side of the head. I had 2 exhaust bolts break off into the head. These are the things that set you back hours on your GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine teardown

Notice the side of the head. I had 2 exhaust bolts break off into the head. These are the things that set you back hours on your GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine teardown

Removing the exhaust manifold, what could go wrong?  Well, mine was the tale of two extremes.  The passenger side was straightforward, quick, and easy.  A few bolts from the head and 3 from the Y pipe.  Total time, under 10 minutes.

Finally got the Exhaust Manifolds out on my GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS

Finally got the Exhaust Manifolds out on my GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS

Driver’s side:  I rounded one of the nuts from the connection at the Y pipe,… short story –  it took days.  But I finally got it.  Also on the driver’s side, once I got the Y pipe separated, for some reason, I could not get the exhaust manifold past the steering shaft.  I watched endless videos where people did not have the problem, (or edited right past the problem), but I definitely did.  My solution is in the video.

Biggest take away: Hit the exhaust manifold to Y pipe bolts with penetrating blaster and let them soak overnight before trying to get them off.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

Remove Harmonic Balancer GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS Video 4

Remove Harmonic Balancer GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS

Remove Harmonic Balancer

The harmonic balancer pulley, biggest challenge so far!  When it was all said and done, it took 5 minutes to get it off.  Unfortunately, for me – it took a grand total of several days.  If you haven’t been following this series in order, let me remind you that I am a complete noob at this car stuff.  Some guys might say, I have no business attacking a challenge like a cam swap with no prior experience at all.  Then there are guys like OldSkoolFunk on YouTube who encourages noobs that they “CAN DO THIS”.  So I did.

That harmonic balancer pulley is a bitch to get off.  You need a special tool to do it.  Google ‘OTC 6667 Damper Puller’. Buy it and it might save you days of frustration.  However, for absolutely NO CHARGE, you can rent one from a store like Advantage Auto, or AutoZone.  The puller is the same, but the kit I got did not have a rod long enough to get the harmonic balancer pulley off.  Hindsight is 20/20 and I could have found something around the garage that could have substituted for the longer rod.  But, at the time, I didn’t have a clue as to why the kit didn’t work.  Cut me some slack – I’m learning as I go.  Anyway, the OTC 6667 was the bomb, and the kit, with an air wrench got the pulley off in seconds.

In order to even get close to the harmonic balancer, you need to remove an ass load of other components.  I am by no means, a “how to” guy when it comes to automotive, but you can check out some of my earlier videos starting with video 2, and hopefully they might help you through the process.  I include references to videos that helped me along the way.

Remove Radiator, fan, & hoses GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec Engine LS Video 2

This is part 2.  Part 1 is here. On with the tear down.  First thing to do was negative battery cable.  In this video, I remove the AEM Brute Force cold air intake.  This is the equivalent of the stock air box that came from the factory.  The stock air box is much bigger in size then the AEM, but either way, it needs to come out.  Then came the coolant from the radiator so I could undo the upper radiator hose, and on to the upper fan shroud.  Next was the fan and the lower fan shroud, and on to the radiator and corresponding hoses.  All the steps are in the video.

The hardest part in this video is the transmission cooler lines. The transmission has lines that go into the radiator to cool the transmission fluid. These are the hard lines that to into the radiator on the passenger site. The hard lines contain an almost invisible “C” clip that needs to be removed to separate the lines from the transmission. See video for details….