Engine Diagnosis of a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 V6 3.7

Engine Diagnosis of a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 V6 3.7

 

Engine Diagnosis of a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 V6 3.7.mp3

Steve

Hey. I’m Steve.

Matt

And I’m Matt

Steve and Matt

And we’re not mechanics.

Steve

But what we are is driven to get this job done. This is not a how to video. This is really more of two to regular guys just basically getting it done and that’s it, that’s it. And we don’t know what we’re doing but we are going to do it anyway.

——-

Hi and welcome to the autopsy portion of this Dodge Ram 3.7-liter V6 out of a $1,500, it’s out. I had mentioned in the beginning of the video that Matt had gone outside early one morning in the wintertime start the car up and went back inside let it warm up started here a really, really, really loud racket. Came back outside and the engine shut itself off. We tried to manually turn the engine by the crank and it’ll go only so far before it jams up. So, obviously something is seriously, seriously wrong. So, let’s just start the valve covers and see if we’ve got any broken rocker arms or anything like that and we’ll just go from there.

All right. So, looking at the passenger side we’ve got all of our rocker arms in place and it doesn’t look like anything else is bust up here. So, let’s go check out the other side.

All right. So, let’s remove this valve cover. Holy shit, look at this. You got a busted rocker here boy.

Matt

What?

Steve

Yes.

Matt

No.

Steve

Yes, the spring is off, screwed up. Hey, hey, hey.

Matt

This probably shouldn’t come out like that, that’s probably a problem. It could be a reason my engine seized up.

Steve

Look what we found.

Matt

We found problems.

Steve

Look at what we found.

Matt

We knew there was something wrong with this thing. We couldn’t figure it out. Shoot, if that’s it man that’ll save me a couple thousand dollars I won’t have to buy another engine.

Steve

Let’s not jump to conclusions but it didn’t…..

Matt

I want to, it saves me money.

Steve

Oh no!!

Matt

What?

Steve

It’s probably catastrophic.

Matt

Oh shoot. Let me see, let me get a close up on that. What do we got here?

Steve

So, here’s the culprit. The spring is broken, valve is busted, I’m sure we’ll find that in a bunch of metal down in the cylinder. It will be interesting to see what the top of the piston looks like. That is not supposed to look like that.

Matt

No.

Steve

Even us non-mechanic guys

Matt

We can say that’s wrong.

Steve

That’s wrong

Matt

That’s wrong.

Steve

Oh no, look.

Matt

You’re just costing me more money with your oh no.

Steve

Shards of metal, there’s metal.

Matt

That’s beautiful.

Steve

So, it’s not like we could just throw the thing back together again and go.

Matt

Let’s try it. Next steps.

Steve

Get a new engine.

Matt

I was hoping for better than that.

Steve

Well I mean if you can take this to a machine shop….

Matt

I was hoping for some magic.

Steve

You could take this to a machine shop and have them clean it, deck it, hone it and all that kind of stuff and by the time you get it back 6 months from now you might as well just buy a new engine.

Matt

Okay. Sounds good.

Steve

But did you sign out?

Matt

Not yet.

Steve

But before you buy that new engine let’s tear the heads off of this thing and check out the cylinders.

Matt

Yeah. Let’s research and see if we can put a V8 in.

Steve

I’m pretty sure we can.

Matt

Say goodbye.

Steve

Goodbye.

All right. So, we’re continuing to disassemble this thing and under normal circumstances if we were going to try to put it back together we would have made a notation as to the which rockers were which and which lifters were which et cetera et cetera et cetera. But this thing is pretty much dead, there is metal down the bottom.

All right. So, let’s start taking some of the stuff off the front of the engine here so that we can remove the timing cover so that we can get access to all that timing stuff just out of pure curiosity because these things jump and we’re going to…. Well Matt’s going to buy a new one.

All right. So, our main objective is to pull this head and see what’s going on in the cylinders down below after we drop the valve. And I could pull, I could just take the chain off and do that but I’ve never worked with single overhead cams before so I actually want to take off this front cover and just kind of look at everything and see what it looks like because that car right there got a very similar setup with do cams on top and I’m actually going to have to take that one apart and put it back together again. So, this is kind of a practice round for me. So, I’m going to kind of go the long way around taking the head off.

Well here it is with the cover off. So, with the camshafts off I’ll be able to take those chains off and pull the heads. All right, all the head bolts are off and ready to come out. Well moment of truth.

I just pulled the head off and I have not even touched, I haven’t touched a thing. That is what we’re looking at. Try cleaning up that mess and see what we see. All right. With the piston down, you can see what the valve did to the side of the cylinder wall there. That’s a pretty deep gouge. So, cleanup one and you can see the dent in the piston.

Remove Engine from 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 L V6

Remove Engine from 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 L V6

Remove Engine from 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 L V6.mp3

Steve

Hey I’m Steve

Matt

And I am Matt

Steve and Matt

And we are not mechanics.

Steve

But what we are is driven to get this job done. This is not a how to video. This is really more of two to regular guys just basically getting it done and that’s it, that’s it. And we don’t know what we’re doing but we do it anyway.

Matt

But we can read.

Steve

We can read.

Matt

We can look at pictures.

Steve

And we watch YouTube videos.

Matt

And we watch YouTube videos.

Steve

And we guarantee at the end of this video series this puppy is going to be back in Matt’s truck and he’s going to be going vroom -vroom down the road.

Matt

Maybe with the V8.

Steve

Maybe with the V8.

Matt

V876

Steve

All right, so here we go. All right. You are looking at a 2006 Dodge Ram one morning back in wintertime. Matt came out fired it up, went back inside and all of a sudden it started making one hell of a noise Matt came running out he shut it off.

Matt

I didn’t shut off it shut itself.

Steve

Did it? So, we tried turning the crank manually and it will turn and then it will stop. So, obviously something metal is in the way. We have removed basically the mechanical Fan, fan shrouds, the serpentine belt, let’s see here the AC is right there. What else? Oh, we took out the alternator which was over there someplace. And now basically we’re kind of getting to the sexy part, we’re going to be removing this huge wire harness here trying to get us clear access to the valve covers, the valve covers are going to come off and we’re going to see if we’re able to ascertain any exciting information at that point. Oh, and then the air box, shit, all the air box stuff was removed as well. So, we’re going to fight with this wire harness at this point.

All right, so we had a little change of plans. We pulled that valve cover off and everything was looking just fine and we were gonna pull this valve cover off right here and we decided why bother. Obviously, the engine has got to get pulled. There’s something dramatic in the way. So, we’re just gonna go ahead and move forward with pulling the engines so. This cross member is going to come off starting here; the radiator is going to come out we’ll figure out whether we have to…. Oh, son of a bitch. Son of a bitch. Okay. Pretty docile.
For now, at least we’ll probably have to remove the hood as well. All right. So, that’s that. All right. So, we’ve hit the exhaust, all the exhaust bolts with or exhaust studs with PB, they’re soaking. So, while they soak we’re going to pull the intake manifold off and because this cal comes down so much somebody, some smart guy on the internet somewhere said that pulling this will make getting the engine out tremendously easier and that we probably won’t have to pull the…. What is this thing called? The hood.

Matt

The hood. We got rid of the rust by the way. Oh, by the way we took this off.

Steve

That’s the what?

Matt

I don’t even remember.

Steve

That’s the cross bar.

Matt

So, we took him off, we took the radiator out and take a look with the V6. Oh, I wasn’t gonna be in the video but with the V6 you can freaking walk around in here. I’m trying to talk Matt into replacing it with a Hemi. So, we’ll see what happens there.

Steve

That’ll be a good video, replace it with a hemi.

Matt

Hell, yeah with your 4 speed or 5 speed whatever?

Steve

6 speed.

Matt

6 speed

Steve

Yeah.

Matt

Oh my God. That would put this truck on the map.

Steve

Good?

Matt

I think so.

Steve

All right. I think it’s recording. My bad, I didn’t see any numbers.

Matt

Oh, I got a foot cramp.

Steve

We got this video, foot cramp. Good deal, that’s a way to start a video. Move over partner let me get this in here. Got the intake manifold, it just came right out, they just clue these things together.

Matt

Oh, smokes, check it out. Nice

Steve

You are going to look at the bottom of that again?

Matt

Huh, nothing new to look at.

Steve

Nothing new?

Matt

Very exciting.

Steve

Let me come over here see what we got.

Matt

We still got a throttle cable that we need to go like this and go like that. oh, okay. So, we still got a bracket that we need to deal here but ….

Steve

And what does that connect to write there?

Matt

What, this?

Steve

Yeah.

Matt

This is your throttle. Watch! Vroom. vroom, vroom.

Steve

Right.

Matt

Vroom. vroom, vroom.

Steve

That’s what it’ll sound like when we put the V8 in it.

Matt

No, if you put the V8 in it it’ll go bed de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de de.

All right I think we’re good.

Steve

All right.

Matt

See how much easier it’s gonna be to get to these bell housing bolts with this thing out of the way and we’ve probably given ourselves I don’t know…..

Steve

A lot of room

Matt

….12 inches.

Steve

Come to this side.

Matt

We’ve given ourselves12 inches of space.

Steve

We’ve got a lot of space in there.

Matt

Basically, where we’re at on this is we need to…. when you pull the O2 sensors off of the y pipe just so that when we drop the exhaust it doesn’t rip the O2 sensors from their connectors. But we don’t have a what we think to be a13 sixteenths. So, we’ve got somebody going to the store for us to get a 13 sixteenths when we get those O2 sensors off. And then there’s just two flanges for each of the exhaust manifolds. It’s just a flange that if I can find it is connected to the y pipe. So far one nut came off. I’m sure the other three will make us pay our dues. But obviously once we get all four of those done and then the white pipe is going to fall and we don’t want a rip out the O2 sensor. So, we are on standby till we do that. So, we pulled the starter out and I think now we’re going to start thinking about bell housing bolts and we are probably going to have this engine out by the end of the day. All right. That’s it.

All right. So, we rented a tool from Auto Zone.

Steve

Here you go.

Matt

We rented out this tool, show them the rest of it. I can only see the tip of it.

Steve

We rented this tool from Auto Zone and it’s going to help us get the O2 sensors off.

Matt

What do they call them? An oxygen sensor Auto removable.

Steve

Or something like that.

Matt

You just slide it right in?

Steve

Slide it.

Matt

Like that, right over.

Steve

Look at that.

Matt

Sure it’s on there nice a solid. You might want to watch your phone. It’s still not easy but it’s better than a wrench.

Steve

Yeah. Is my head in the way?

Matt

I am going to try it from here.

Steve

All right.

Matt

Just break it.

Steve

See what a bad ass this guy is? There he is right there. I won’t be in the video but he can be in the video. Your face is all red though. Look at it go look at it.

Matt

All right. Fucking bell housing bolts. They’re all crazy and they’re different like.

Steve

All right. So, there’s the pan. We’ve got a bell housing bolt right here which I believe is a 15 this guy right here. So, there’s a bell housing bolt right there.

Matt

I think we took this one out already. I don’t think there’s a stud there. Now that was probably, this is probably just where the starter goes. There’s nothing there, up here there’s a bracket and I’m not sure what. As we come down around the other way there’s a….

Steve

[Inaudible08:00]

Matt

Right here.

Steve

Yeah.

Matt

That one’s a 15.

Steve

Yeah.

Matt

Can you point out the rest? I think that one is a 15 too and then try the next one it might be….

Steve

That one right there.

Matt

Is that the 16?

Steve

That is a 16.

Matt

All right. So, just let’s make notes of …..

Steve

16 up on the top.

Matt

Make a note of the fact that this is a stud right here.

Steve

Okay.

Matt

This guy right here is a stud. So, that’s it and then we’re going to have to go around top to get the rest.

Steve

All right. So, we’re starting on the bell housing bolts. We got transmission jack under the transmission. We actually got really, really, really lucky with the exhaust manifolds where they made up…. the flange is made up with the y pipe because we were able to get all four of them without too much hassle at all. So, the white pipe is now completely separated from our exhaust manifolds and I think we’re pretty much there on all of the connections. We’re just going after the bell housing bolts and we’re going to disconnect the engine from the transmission and then it’s just a matter of motor mounts and then we should be we be pulling this one out. That’s kind of where we’re at right now. It’s about 95 degrees, I almost passed out.

Matt

Whoever watches this video.

Steve

All right. This is a…. what you call it? A super naval condouple triple lindy knot.

Matt

That’s right. You know what, you replicate it.

Steve

And if you want to troll about the knot troll about the fucking kot, I could care less.

Matt

It’s my own specialty.

Steve

Yeah. So how many years were you in the Navy?

Matt

Four years five months.

Steve

Four years. But it was 32 years ago.

Matt

Four years five months 16 hours 32 minutes.

Steve

Here you go but it is a shitload long time ago.

Matt

Yeah, 20 plus.

Steve

So, we’re almost there. We are getting ready to pull. All right. Keep on going. You’ve got to go up some more, you’ve got to clear this…you’ve got to clear that.

Matt

Everything else is clear, we’re good.

Steve
Everything’s clear. Take it straight out. Use your muscles man.

Matt

People [inaudible10:29] down and hosed down everything is clear or I could do that.

Steve

Yeah, this is a condo man. We have done it man. Oh, wow, wow, wow. Of course. How is that possible?

Matt

oh, they’re just a test for [inaudible11:00].

 

Cleaning Parts GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine – vid # 23

With the engine off to the machine shop, I decided to clean some parts.  After watching hours of YouTube videos, I started with brake cleaner, and then moved on to Easy Off oven cleaner.  It is a great de-greaser.

Rear main seal cover GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine before cleaning

Rear main seal cover GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine before cleaning

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine valve cover comparison before and after cleaning

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine valve cover comparison before and after cleaning

So far, I have done the valve covers, timing cover, rear cover, valley cover, oil pickup tube, harmonic balancer, and AC compressor bracket.  The oil pan and windage tray went to the machine shop to get done by a pro.

In a future video, I may try my hand at polishing some parts.  I’m not sure why – no one will ever be able to see any of the parts on this engine as it is covered by a huge fan shroud,  and every hose and electronic connector imaginable, but I do want to learn.  I guess it depends on how long the motor stays at the shop and how eager I am to work on stuff.  I also have plans to clean, port, and polish the throttle body.  We’ll soon see where this ends up.

Rear main seal cover and valve cover GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine during cleanin

Rear main seal cover and valve cover GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine during cleaning

Front timing cover, rear cover, valley cover cleaned (but not polished) GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Front timing cover, rear cover, valley cover cleaned (but not polished) GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

 

 

 

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

 

 

Remove Pistons, Rods, Crank (short block) GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid # 22

pistons-connecting-rods-remove GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine

Pistons & connecting rods from a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

I didn’t intend on having to remove the pistons, connecting rods, mains, and crankshaft, but then again, I didn’t think it through, either.  In order to get the engine in the bed of my truck, it couldn’t sit in there crank side down.  I also couldn’t lift it up (from the stand) in the bed of the truck either.  It had to go back on the hoist, and I had to remove the short block to get it to the machine shop as safely as possible.

Crankshaft from a GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec LS Engine still in the block

Crankshaft from a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine still in the block

I totally did the connecting rods incorrectly.  If anyone actually reads this, don’t do what I did in the video.  Remove one connecting rod at a time and re-bolt it to its cap.  I later learned that the factory breaks these two parts, so each rod is an exact match to its cap.  The way I numbered mine, I was able to reverse engineer which one was which, but I lost about 20 minutes in the process.

Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine down to the bare block

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine down to the bare block

The mains were mostly not a big deal.  Except #3 – it had a death grip and would not come out.  I ended up giving up on it (I was not sure how hard you could whack it with a rubber mallet), and returning to it the next day.  My hands, wrists, and arms were ready for battle again and with enough pushing, pulling, and tugging, it finally came out.  The crankshaft came right out and I immediately wrapped it in bubble wrap.

Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine going to the machine shop

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine going to the machine shop

I had done it!  I was down to a bare block.     My biggest automotive achievement prior to this was some oil changes, a couple of tune-ups (on old school distributer engines – not this coil by cylinder stuff), and slapping on a few bolt on mods.  This was a real achievement for me.  However, not even close to how I hope I will feel when I get it back together and [hoping and praying] that when I turn the key, all will be well.  That day has yet to come.  As I write this, the engine is still at the machine shop.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

Arrival at A & K Rebuilders in Lake Wylie, SC

Arrival at A & K Rebuilders in Lake Wylie, SC

 

 

 

Remove Oil Pump, Pan, & other stuff GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine Vid # 21

Getting ready to remove engine mount from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Getting ready to remove engine mount – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Oil pan removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Oil pan removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Oil pump and pickup tube removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Oil pump and pickup tube removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Windage tray removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Windage tray removed from my Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

only the short block remains - Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

only the short block remains – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Before moving the engine from the cherry picker to the engine stand, I had to get some bolts.  I got a kit from Summit Racing.  Part SUM-G1012M.  They are 10.9 grade (metric for Grade 8) bolts and they worked just fine.  I was not sure about exact positioning, maybe someone will comment on the video in YouTube.

Short block on my GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Short block on my GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

I lowered the engine until the oil pan was touching the floor and I used my floor jack to support the heavy black engine stand part.  I wanted to make absolutely sure not to cross thread the bolts, and took my time.   The jack was a big help.

Next, a bunch of parts flew off – Engine mount brackets, AC compressor housing bracket thingy, and some other small stuff.

I used the jack to support the oil pan while unthreading the bolts and the thing came off very gently and easily.  Then I spun it around and got the oil pickup, the windage tray, and finally, the oil pump.

 

Next was the machine shop discussion.  This was a curve ball.

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

Remove Flex plate & Rear Cover – GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine Tear Down vid # 20

flex-plate GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

Flexplate ready to come off GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

I remove the flex plate and rear cover in this video.  In the beginning I’m just marveling at the block.  I was shocked that I actually got this far.  I mean I’ve seen them do it 100’s of times on TV, but I am completely in awe at how the engine works in the first place.  How those parts do at least 2000 RPMs billions of times, how the 4 stroke engine works.  From the cam to the lifters to the push rods to the rockers to the valves – opening and closing at exactly the right time.  All of it.  It’s just really cool.

Rear cover and seal ready to come off GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

Rear cover and seal ready to come off GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

Anyway, I digress.  The flex plate came off with the air wrench, and I went slow, taking care to film the exact position of the flex plate in relationship to everything else.  The whole marking thing in the video ?????? , I don’t have a clue.  I’m sure that by the time the whole thing goes back together, those marks will be gone.  I know I have a ton of research ahead of me, and I don’t mind it.  I just hope I get it right.

Rear cover and seal now off GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

Rear cover and seal now off GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

As for the rear cover, it is straightforward, except for the two long bolts that come up from underneath, those need to come off before the cover will come off.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

Remove Motor Mounts & Engine GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid 19

LS Valley Plate made engine removal much easier for the GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor

LS Valley Plate made engine removal much easier for the GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor

Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor on its way out

Chevy Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor on its way out

Engine bay after removal of the GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor

Engine bay after removal of the GM 5.3 Vortec LS motor

Removing the motor mounts and engine turned out being easier than I originally thought it would be.  I abandoned using one of those engine leveling tools for just the chain, and from there, it was smooth sailing.  The GM LS Engine removal plate made it very simple, definitely worth the money.

removal-gm-vortec-ls-motor GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

Removal-gm-vortec-ls-motor GM Chevy Vortec Engine LS 5.3

As for the bolts, I was relieved to see that it was just 3 bolts on each side, and that the other 4 bolts (for each side) could just come out with the engine and removed later.  I used an impact wrench universal socket on the 3 bolts (6 including both sides) and the universal pin blew out on #6.  I actually found it later and put it back in.

 

The engine came up and out without any issue.  I was shocked that something I was so worried about for days ended up being so easy.  I am still sweating getting it back in there without crimping any of the wire harnesses (or any of the other 1000 things that can go wrong), but that’s for a future day.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Losing My Temper removing Oil Pressure Sensor Sending Unit video 18

oil-pressure-sensor-removeal-not GM chevy tahoe vortec LS engine

Oil pressure sending unit on a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

How NOT to remove Oil Pressure Sensor?  When you work until you are completely exhausted, you lose your temper.  When you lose your temper, things get broken.  When things get broken you lose your temper even more.  When you don’t have the right tools, you lose your temper even more.  And finally, when you go to the store, and buy the wrong tool – and realize it when it doesn’t work when you get back, you start breaking even more stuff.

A 27mm deep socket is NOT enough to get the oil pressure sensor off a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

A regular 27mm deep socket is NOT enough to get the oil pressure sensor off a GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

If only I had the proper tool for removing the oil pressure sensor.  At least, I think that is the right tool.  I have not done reassembly yet, so I don’t know for sure.  Anyhow, I included this video in the series to show that not everything goes as perfect as it does on ½ hour car shows on cable.  This was NOT a hard step.  I was just getting ahead of myself, I wanted the motor out and this little oil pressure sensor was about the last thing in my way.  I was tired, and I should have wrapped it up hours before.  If anyone actually reads this, learn from my mistakes.  Just walk away!  If you’re tired, it ain’t worth it.  It’s gonna cost me around $40 for the part and $8 for the socket.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

Valley Cover Removal | Knock Sensor Analysis & Why Not to Powerwash – vid 17

Valley cover and Knock Sensors GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Valley cover and Knock Sensors GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Getting ready to remove the front knock sensor - GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Getting ready to remove the front knock sensor – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Rear knock sensor got wet and threw code - GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Rear knock sensor got wet and threw code – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Removing the valley cover is pretty straightforward.  However you need to pinch the connectors on the knock sensors pretty hard to get them out.  Then, the knock sensors come out using a 22mm socket.  Then the easy top bolts and the thing comes right off.

Things I learned:  I read somewhere to power wash your engine before taking on a task like this.  So I did (about a week prior to starting).  A few days later I got a check engine light (don’t remember the code, but it was the knock sensor).  I did some more reading and discovered that power washing the engine can get water in the knock sensor and throw a code.  So, when I pulled that knock sensor out and saw what bad shape it was in, I was not surprised.

Difference in knock sensors with one ruined by power washing engine (GM 5.3 Vortec LS Motor)

Difference in knock sensors with one ruined by power washing engine (GM 5.3 Vortec LS Motor)

Another learning experience:  Much earlier, when I pulled the heads, I was planning a cam swap.  I was not planning on pulling the motor at that point.  By the time I filmed this video,  I find myself wanting to pull the motor and I don’t have heads on it as a convenient attach point.  I purchased the lift plate you see in the video, and I am glad I did.  It made pulling the engine a cinch.

 

So, check out the video, and be sure to check out my other videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and like and comment.   Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Removal of the rest of the wires GM Chevrolet Tahoe Vortec LS engine vid 16

Ground Strap, bottom of block, drivers side - GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Ground Strap, bottom of block, drivers side – GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

No matter how hard I tried, I missed some wire connections.  The first was from the negative battery cable to a ground under the block on the driver’s side.  Also grounded to the same place was a branch from the bunch of wires (from an earlier video) that went along the bottom of the timing cover and the front of the oil pan. These wires are actually the ones that go to the starter.  They are affixed to the block on the passenger side and needed to be separated.

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine wires everywhere

GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine wires everywhere!

Yet another type of connection on the Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Yet another type of connection on the Tahoe GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Then, there’s the branch that breaks off at the top of the firewall near the AC accumulator.  It dips down the firewall and disappears along the frame.  It eventually goes to the passenger side O2 sensors.  It’s a long sucker with several fix points, but I wanted it out of the way for engine removal.

None of it is hard to do, it’s just that it seems like GM used a wide variety of connections and retainers.  I had to go slow and make sure I didn’t lose my temper and just pull the connections apart.

Every connection seemed like it was different on the GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

Every connection seemed like it was different on the GM 5.3 Vortec LS Engine

 

 

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