Install Torque Converter Bolts, Starter & other 4L60E Transmission Connections
All right. So, next item up for bids is to measure the distance between a flex plate and the torque converter bolt pad. All right. So, make sure it spins freely. It does. Yeah, definitely it spins freely. All right. So, torque converter spins freely. Now we’re going to measure the distance between the flex plate and the torque converter pad and I’ve spared you the time when I do that, I can’t get really anything in there because I’m looking through this little hole here. But what I did was I got my feeler gauge and I put as many of them together as I could to where I could get it all up in there. So, with all those feeler gauges that’s how I was able to get it up in there and if I added one more then I was not able to get it up in there. So, I can either take all of these guys and add them together on a calculator or I can cheat and use this.
All right. Per several sources on the internet say I need to be between 0.60 inches and 0.187 inches and I am at 0.1445. So, I am right in the middle. So, I am happy with that and now I feel at this point that I’m good to go to go ahead and bolt up the torque converter the flex plate.
All right. I’ll have to excuse the loud heater in the background, it’s about 19 degrees outside so. We are looking at [inaudible02:11] shaft bolt, mine is aftermarket stock 27. I don’t remember what the stock was. But I’m gonna go ahead and put my breaker bar on here so I can…. I got to be able to turn the crank so that I can turn the flex plate because the next one to do is do the flex plate to the torque converter bolts. There’s three of them and I put them on finger tight and all three of them make sure everything winds up and then I’m gonna torque them down.
All right. So, I’ve turned the flex plate where I could see the whole and I can reach up through the bell housing and move the torque converter to where I can line up the holes. And there’s the first one, seven to go and put the bolt first one but I’m only doing finger tight.
Okay, so we got all three-flex plate to torque converter bolts in and I got them tightened down and then we use the breaker bar that we had on the [name missed03:23] sharp bolt to let it run a couple rotations to make sure that the torque converter wasn’t rubbing up against anything. If it was at one point I think as we tighten the bolts it pulled the torque converter probably a 16th of an inch or whatever it was away from the back and I don’t think it’s rubbing anymore. No, it’s not rubbing anymore.
All right with the bolts taken care of, all tightened down and nothing rubbing we’re going to turn our attention to the starter and get it back in.
This other big one is another 13. It’s gonna go to the big silver wire and this is an 8mm and it’s gonna go to the black wire underneath there.
All right. Before putting the starter back in make sure you put the crankshaft position sensor back in it’s the purple and white one. Because once you get the starter in here you’re not going to be able to touch that again.
All right. It’s starter time. You can’t put the starter in first because then you’ll never get the plastic thing in. But then you don’t want to bolt down the plastic things because then you can’t get the starter in. So, put on everything loose that way you can move it around and then tighten it up.
Oh. I wasn’t recording at all. All right. We got this back on. There’s a 13 and a 15 and another 13 that hides back there. That 13 was the hardest one. The only way to get to it was with an open-ended wrench. It fought us every step of the way but it’s on and that’s good and then of course don’t forget that one right there. I think that’s a 10 or 8, I forget to get all that wiring lose back together.
All right. This is the fixture straight off of the transmission itself and you can see that that e-clip has three little barbs so that when the flare goes over it, after the fattest part of the flare goes over it should click right into place. So, I am going to go ahead and put this back on the transmission and my flare tip should just click right.
All right. Here’s a couple suggestions that might end up saving you hours. First and foremost, before you do your trans cooling lines that is to say while they are still loose. Do your transmission dipstick. We have to undo the cooler lines to get them out so that we can get the dipstick in. So, you wanna do yourself a favor do the dipstick first, dipstick connects on the bell housing bolt up there, right there that’s the dipstick. Feed the dipstick in through the bottom or at least that’s the way we did it. Make sure you get yourself a new ring. If you cannot for whatever reason make it happen to where you can get the C-clip on there if you fight with it and fight with it and fight with it and fight with it and you can’t get it on or if you get it on and then the flange or the flare of the transmission line won’t seat inside, I took it off, I cleaned it up, I made sure that the C-clip was in it correctly. I taped it up, put it back on, lubed it up, grease and it went in super easy. So, the top on first two because it’s harder and harder to get to that after if you do the bottom and then don’t forget to re-snap these guys back into place. All right. So, that was a much bigger challenge than it needed to be but the transmission coolant lines and that guy are in place.
All right. With our trans dipstick in place and our trans cooler lines in place we’re going to go ahead and just make sure you get this on. I think we did that a long time ago, make sure that guy is on; it’s, the only connection on this side other than the obvious that. Now I’m going to go ahead and put the heat shield back on with just two bolts, very simple, it goes on like that, two bolts. All right. Heat shield, two bolts, very simple, effortless, right Ronnie?
Okay. This is passenger side wheel well. We took this heat shield off earlier so that we could get access to some of the bell housing bolts and stuff like that. But if you by any chance have…. If you by any chance have an awesome 11-year-old around with small hands that makes getting that bolt easy but if you have adult hands probably you won’t be able to get in there without a lot of pain. These two are relatively easy. So, in order to tighten that one down my boy got that one hand tight but now we’re going to use a special tool that I bought precisely for this to get the rest of the way. And these guys are really easy. So, I’m using this tight reach to get that 10 mmm boy up top way up in there. Check it out. Way up there in that corner, in this tight reach. No, my other hand to the socket. You see it down there? All right. So, I’m down here. Now go back up to the other side. You’re only getting the big blue wire. There it is. Look at this thing. All right. Look at that. So, here’s an example of what I was doing. You can back up some. This is how the tight reach works to get up in those tight places and I’m going to use it right here. Otherwise, this is awesome.
So, I took this and I knocked that one position so that I could actually get this on there and it just pops on. And now this right here is in its place and as soon as I just push this forward it’ll pull everything through and now you shouldn’t be able to pull back on it. And now it’s just a matter of putting the safety clip in there to lock it in place. Now this tab can’t get squeezed the other tab can’t get squeezed and it’s locked in a place, I can’t put forward, I can’t pull it back.