Prepping 4L60E & Torque Converter for Chevy Tahoe Installation

Prepping 4L60E & Torque Converter for Chevy Tahoe Installation

Prepping 4L60E & Torque Converter for Chevy Tahoe Installation.mp3

Steve

Okay, are we rolling?

Speaker 1

Yes.

Steve

All right. So, we’ve got the 4L60E back from the transmission place and we’ve got it completely rebuilt. It’s rebuilt with Z pack 34 clutches. It’s got a Corvette servo in it, a B sun shell, a 500-boost valve and a BNM shift Kit. Right here we’ve got the new fuse torque converter. The torque converter was selected specifically to go with the cam. Cams got a range of 1000 to 55,00 RPM. This particular talking group got a stall of 18,000. I read online that you want your torque converter to be between 500 and 800 RPMs higher than the bottom range of the cam shaft. So, this was selected specifically to go with my particular cam.

All right. So, I’ll get ready to put this whole thing back together and step one is making sure that we’ve got clean surfaces. So, first thing I’m going to do is I am clean out crankshaft pilot hole, get it super clean. Next thing we’re gonna do is I’m just kind of checking the condition of the flex plate, make sure the flex plate have any cracks in it or anything like that. Make sure it’s not missing any teeth and it seems to be pretty good, pretty good.
I’m sorry. Some of you may have caught that reference but my boy did, my boy caught that reference. All right. So, oh by the way if you’re starting with the flex plate off then make sure that this surface behind this flex plate right here you make that nice and clean too, clean out all the holes and everything like that. This flex plate was just put on like rebuilt the engine so I’m not going to mess with it but it’s in good shape and that is the first part of step one which is getting her clean.

All right. Oh shit. I mean shoot. All right. Another thing I want to do is these dowels, I want them clean, super, super clean. So…. All right. And I’m also going to clean the mating surface on the back of the engine block where the engine block is going to come into contact with the bell housing.

All right our next step was to clean the torque convertor pilot and it’s nice and clean. Next thing we’re going to do is we’re going to measure the circumference of the pilot and it’s coming in at 42.31 and that’s in mm. Can you see all that?

Speaker 1

Yes

Steve

Okay so 42.31. All right. Cut.

Speaker 1

Take two

Steve

Take two. All right. So now we’re going to measure this, oops. We’re going to measure the inner diameter – 42.45. Pretty darn close. All right. So now we know that our torque converter pilot will fit in our crankshaft pilot hole.

All right. So, sorry if I’m squishing it. All right so the next thing to do is just to run a quick test after everything that we’ve done to make sure that it still fits in there. And if I drop this on my head it’s not going to be pretty.

Speaker 1

Please don’t drop it.

Steve

It does fit. Okay. Now….

Speaker 1

Are you going to put it on?

Steve

Keep it on. All right. Now we got to make sure our bolt holes line up. So, Ronnie.

Speaker 1

Yes.

Steve

Ronnie ain’t hard to say. Oh shoot. All right. Let’s get out of here.

All right. Because the torque converter is so heavy and I was not able to lift it up and match it up to the flex plate. We did a mockup of the holes of the torque converter with this piece of cardboard and we identified exactly where the holes are on the torque converter. And now I am…. and now instead of trying to match the torque converter up with the flex plate I’m going to check our little mockup holes against the flex plate and see if we line up. If we do we’ll……I think we’ll have a party. What do you think?

Speaker 1

That sounds good.

Steve

Okay. All right so good. Good?

Speaker 1

Yeah

Steve

Done. All right. So, we took our template and we lined up the top hole and we know this like here is we can see light…. you can see light coming through?

Speaker 1

Yes.

Steve

All right so that one the top hole is good. If you can see light coming through that hole that’s a good sign. And I’ll have to just check this one. Yep. All three of them line up. All right. Cut.

All right, so one thing that we want to do is we’ve got two coolers on this thing: we’ve got a cooler in the radiator and we’ve got a transmission cooler, an exterior transmission cooler. So, we want to get all that bad fluid out of the lines. So, I’ve got a line here which is going to come out and go into our bucket crap and then with line in I’ve got some of this cooler clean. Can you see that cooler clean? Trans flush. So, what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna cook this cooler clean line up to this black line and we’re going to flush all the bad transmission fluid that’s sitting in both coolers right now and get the lines as clean as we possibly can. So, that’s what this is all about. All right. Click.

Speaker 1

Stuff is coming out of the can going through that into the air. Stuff is coming on the red tube, we got fluid.

Steve

That is not it.

Speaker 1

What?

Steve

So, we poured to mush fluid in the torque converter but we found that if we spin the torque converter…. but we found that if we spin the torque converter verb it helps to clink some of that fluid around inside of it and bring it to level so that we can put it on…… Plus my son is having a hell of a good time doing that. travel. Aren’t you? Damn you’re good at that. Where is the fluid now? So, the fluid originally was all way at the top, it was all the way at the top and he’s been spinning it and he got it to go down a good bit. All right try spinning it the other way.

Let’s put you….. put a light in there. Oh yeah. It’s really, really distributing itself good now. All right. Let’s keep trying.

Speaker 1

I like the color.

Steve

It’s red.

Speaker 1

I know.

Steve

All right. Kill the light.

All right so this is a 3M pad, little Bristol pad, I don’t know exactly what it’s called but it’s….. where are you? But it’s safe for aluminum. So, I’m just gonna use it because you can see how bad this looks right here. So, I am going to use it to clean up the bell housing mating surface.

All right. So, we cleaned up the mating surface, the bell housing and we covered everything up with plastic and we blew it out really good to get as much debris out of there as possible. And we’ve already got some grease on the sideline. But here it goes. All right, we should hear three clunks. Okay. I guess that’s one. I guess that’s two. I guess that’s the three, no there is three. Why does it sound like it’s rubbing? You getting all this?

Speaker 1

Yeah.

Steve

That doesn’t sound good. All right go ahead and turn that off. So, the torque converter is scraping against the torque bolts inside and that’s a show stopper. So, all right that’s it.

All right. So, we need to measure the distance between the bell housing mating surface and the pad of the torque converter. So, we’ll do that now. Okay, ready. Okay, we’re 0.96. So, take under an inch, let’s see what that is, 31.30. So, very close to an inch but 31.30 All right. That’s that measurement. Now we have to do the same thing underneath the car for the other one.

All right. This is our B number, the distance between the flex plate and the engine block. That number is 0.8750 All right. So, our A number which was 0.97 something minus our 0.87 and change number is somewhere around point 0.1 which is within our tolerance of…

Speaker 1

0.6 to 0.187.

Steve

0.6 to 0.187. So, by our measures we are good to put the transmission on the car.